Mapo Tofu — Sichuan Heat, Layered Umami
~ 麻婆豆腐 / Ma Po Dou Fu ~

2022 Moulin-à-Vent “Foudre” — Richard Rottiers / Beaujolais, France
Mapo tofu is Sichuan cuisine distilled to its essence:
heat, perfume, and the quiet depth of fermentation.
Drawing on years of classical training, Chef Sasa layers doubanjiang, chili, Sichuan pepper, and sweet bean paste in carefully controlled stages, so that beneath the first rush of mala
lies a slow bloom of umami and gentle sweetness.
Firm tofu absorbs the sauce like a sponge of flavor, while minced pork anchors the dish with savory weight.
Beneath the spice, one senses saline notes from fermentation, a hint of bitterness from roasted chiles, and an umami echo that lingers— a true architecture of the five tastes.
To meet such complexity, we pour Moulin-à-Vent “Foudre” from Richard Rottiers—old-vine Gamay, naturally fermented and raised in large foudre casks.
Cherry and violet rise first, followed by earth, pepper, and a quiet sense of structure—a wine at once graceful and grounded.
Its juicy fruit gently softens the chili heat, turning sharp spice into savory pleasure, while the lively acidity resonates with the dish’s fermented salinity, refreshing the palate and inviting another bite.
Texture becomes part of the dialogue:
the tofu’s spring, the grain of minced pork, and the wine’s supple tannins knit together, building layers without heaviness.
Warm spice meets cool acidity—a moment of balance that feels both calm and alive.
Rottiers seeks not lightness, but precision—and that precision allows Sichuan intensity to find harmony.
The heat subsides, umami expands, and fruit hovers in the finish like a final chord.
Fire and fruit, answering each other—a completed ensemble of flavor.
Ji-Cube
Sommelier Kiyoshi Yoshioka
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